The history of beads

Beads in ancient ages

The history of beads is fascinating, like a novel, full of secrets and unexpected turning points. Today glass beads and beads have lots of predecessors. Firstly people began to use a material, which was given them by nature: claws, tooth and bones of animals, shells, clay, wooden sticks and seeds of plants. When they learned to treat different materials, they step by step began to make stone beads and shining metallic beads.

From the prehistoric days until today "beads", made of the stone or of the bones and the animals tooth, made a big interest and imprassion. About 6000 years B.C. in Syria, Livan and Turkey there were not only the first forms of shrubbery beads making, which were like amulets, but and the trade of such beads. When, where and how the glass was appeared, is unknown. Perhaps, it was appeared with the help of goods exchange between Finikia, which offered the siliceous sand, and between Egypt, which offered to buy "natr" (compound of the natrium and aluminum material, which was used as a component for melting and making a glass). After the glass inventing in the IV century B.C., bright, colourful glass beads immediatly won hearts of fashionable men and women. The oldest of all of the glass things is the bead that was found in excavations of Egyptian city Fiva.

Anciant Egyptians were the first people, who learned to make beads, to weave different beads, to decorate dresses with beads. Even symbols of holy authority of pharaons - famous uskhi- ornaments of the Sun were made not only out of gold, but of the beads too. Women dresses were covered with glass beads.

Finikia's people played a big role in spreading out the glass, the glass beads and the beads. They turned it in the part trade throw all over the Mediterrenean. People made up beads by melting different colour glass mass in it and on the bone or stone pivot. They were intended for ornamenting dead people's clothes and like holy gifts.

In Mesopotamia beads weren't the amulets. They were like a model of wealth and a symbol of well-being and the high level of their owners lives. Egyptians made beads, by melting glass mass, coloured in blue tone, or green and black colours on the pieces of quarz. Beads named "phayans" were very expensive in the black colour rim. Such beads were worn by pharaones, because they concidered them like amulets. In III-II centuries B.C. in Greece were made different coloured and formed beads. It's believed that the first-rate center of such beads manufactoring was Rodos Island.

During Hellenism period (400 years B.C.) Alexandria became the animated center of beads production. The new technology of "Mosaic glass" based on usage of cored and whole glass tubule of different colors has appeared during this period. Because of usage of "soap for the glass" Romans have learned to clean the glass and that helped them to get the sample of mosaic glass, white dull glass and etc. With the help of glass-blowing tubule invention there was the start production of glass vessel for household.

Beads, made on the Rome Impery's territory, were very high costed in Alexandria, Antikhonia and Rome until 400 years B.C. It was so, owing to high quality of treatment and rich colour gamut. After that Alexandrian glass beads were highly valuable and they became as an example for Venetian glass producers.

During the antique period, the centers for glass and glass beads producing, which were the talismans, became Muslim countries along with Egypt and Rome. New technical methods were used for beads making, new beads with "eye", with "tooth" and with "feather" have appeared.

After Damask falling in 1401 year, the glass beads in countries of Islam's world step by step was distroyed. There were only little, unregular working centers of glass treatment in Asia Minor. Venice took important part in glass and beads production. Masters from Venice took into attac all of the technical methods of glass treatment, which were saved by centuries.

The Venice beads

The martial Romans, who subdued Egypt, took from Egyptian masters the secrets of glass production. From the VI centure the center of artist glass making became Byzantium. Byzantines used very widely the models of Rome Empire. Beads got to Venice across the Byzantium. The first documents, which proved the glass treatment in Venice, are concerned to X century. In those documents there was a reminding about glass vessels for the household. The glass production blooming began in X century. In 1221 according to the Big Century resolution, because of the often fires all of the glass workshops were transfered from the city to the Murano Island, located near that city. Long time it was a single place in Europe, where beads were produced. Venice people protected secrets of making glass miracle very carefully. The death for disclosure the secrets of technology and dungeon for their relatives. In XIII centure the number of workshops that produced glass were increasing. Venice beads producers have created Shop Corporation, named School. At the end of XIII century the "perlery" (the masters, who made beads) were extended in Venice so much, that in 1284 year the corporation, which produced cut glass controlled the glass makers production, because they were afraid of the imitation of the glass beads, which could be concidered as crystal beads, that were used for making famous beads for prayer.

Merchants around Europe transported Venice beads of a greatest quality, different colors and shades. Masters decorated different clothes, shoes, bags, cases and other elegant things with such beautiful beads. European travelers and colonizers took beads in far countries with them. Inhabitiants of Africa, America, ocean islands liked bright, colouful and brilliant beads very much. They exchanged gold, tasty foods and furs to such beads. Native people exchanged simple beads to shells, bones and seeds to new glass beads with big plesure. Nobody could compete with venecian glassmakers for a long time. In many European countries people tried to start the beads production, but these manufuctured goods were lower than venecian. Only in XVIII century tendencies of Turengia masters to solve venecian secrets led to making new light circle glass beads- predecessors of fir-tree ornaments. After that talanted Bohema's masters learned to do high-quality decorations in Czechia. They also learned to cover it by different enamels. Beads made in Bohemia were different by big variety of colours, sizes and forms. Czech's masters began to hide from competitors the secrets of making wonderful beads.

В дальнейшем бисер используется в основном для изготовления четок и для имитации драгоценных камней. Зачастую весьма трудно было отличить настоящий хрусталь от подделок. Не случайно в 1445 г. Сенат Венеции издал специальный указ, предусматривавший строгое наказание за подделку, причем не только для изготовителей, но и для распространителей фальшивых украшений. Во второй половине XV в. (к 1475 г.) зарождаются новые приемы изготовления бусин из полых стеклянных трубок, которые разрезались на мелкие кусочки, а затем шлифовались, чтобы придать бусинам округлую форму. Они назывались "патерностри" граненые, с розетками и "олдани". Так появились бисерщики, которые в 1604 г. объединились с производителями хрусталя в Корпорацию мастеров-изготовителей четок и цветного бисера. В Сан-Франческо (San Francesco della Vigna) цеха имели свою Школу и небесного покровителя - святого Антония.

At the beginning of XVI century the new method of glass treatment was invented. It was called "above the fire" or "above the lamp". Who invented the method of biser treatment "above the lamp" is unknown, we can only suppose, that they were inventors of beads for prayer. The new method was used only with using whole tubule, like in manufactoring "paternostry", and beads were made under the lamp fire. The new method of producing let people to get great variety of colour, form and size of beads.

Venetian beads were very high valued and acquired the world reputation. In XVII and XVIII centuries owing to special technique and using of some materials like wax, silver and fish scales, people were able to make glass beads, which imitated famous beads, made by masters from Muslim countries. At that moment the goverment of Venice published new laws, which banned masters to share their secrets.

Russian beads

The glass beauty was famous in Anciant Russia too. In XI century small workshops in Kiev were opened. There were made vessels, smalt for mosaic and beads. According to some facts, even Venetian tradesmen were amazed with quality and extraordinarity of Russian masters works. Later workshops appeared in Chernigov, Vladimir, Ryazan and other cityes. The Mongol-Tatar attac stopped Russian trade's development.

From the XVII century different attempts were undertaken to organize beads manufacturing in Russia with the foreign masters help. In Izmailovo in 1668-1669 years the glass factory's building began. With this building's end in 1670 year, Venetian masters arrived to Moscow. But to arrange permanent producting in Russia was unreal. Only Lomonosov could organize beads production in Russia. Great scientist asked a permission to build factories, by showing datas about hundred pounds of beads and glass beads, which were transfered to country across Sent-Petersburg port. Not only with the help of figures and facts Lomonosov could persuade the country power to develop glass manufacturing in Russia. He wrote poetry, called "About glass benefit".

In 50th years M.V.Lomonosov made his first glass products. Special original recipes of the Great Russian scientist produced beads and glass beads. Some kinds of beads and glass beads didn't have foreign analogs. But after Lomonosov's death, in 1768 year, the factory was closed. Later not high-quality beads were produced in handicraft workshops.

At the end of XIX century some small beads productions were created under Moscow, in Tulsk and Tombov province. Russian masters things were demonstrated with a great success in France, England and Africa exhibitions and took a great demand.

At the end of XVIII-XIX centuries enthusiasm of beads trades in aristocratical circles was so high, that it became a main part of Russian culture and mode of life. Often beads were used for embroidering, for knitting with a hook and with knitting needle. As against to the European countries, in Russia beads things weren't used for trade. Needlework was housework. Sometimes fortress workers help was used in big works. For making such things were spent months, because it was a very long and accurate process. Trade with such things often was in churches, but sometimes in small workshops.

There were traditions like presenting cute handmade trifles made of beads to different relatives, neighbors and just friends. Besides these products were used in households and pious contribution.

Beads in Russia were used very widely - from the base for the ball and child toe till the gobelens for palace walls. This beautiful and lasting material was used for making wallets, cases for umbrellas, covers for notebooks and albums, cases for maps and boxes for tobacco. People decorated icons, pictures with scenes or beautiful bouquets and birds. Different smoking pipes, vases and other beautiful things were covered and decorated by beads. Walls of palace and Imperators palace were ornamented with glass beads too. For example, glass bisered room of China palace in Oranienbaum under Petersburg. The walls of this palace are covered with beads, made in Lomonosov's factory. At the beginning of XIX century "beads fever" from all of the fashionable capitals spreaded by provincial cities and village places. At the end of XIX century, when not expensive bead was appeared, this needlework was developed in peasant's homes too.

Beads in the Middle Ages

The word "contena" is derived either from old word "contigia" which means decoration or from words "contare/contante" that means to count or counting, because some folks had beads instead of money. Beads "conterie" were made from cored glass tube in special heaters. A master, two assistants and a man who prepared mineral mix, which later turned into glass, led the whole process.

The method "above a lamp" for making beads was named so because of word "lume" (a lamp) which was used for fusing glass coating on fireproof wire. This method didn't change for many years. Masters made monochromatic and colorful beads, floral appliques and decorative elements.

A special corporation, including masters and producers of bead-roll and beads, was established, but in 1648 manufacturers got out from this corporation because of division. In 1606 there were about 251 workshops for making beads in Venetia. In 1764 this number shortened to 22 and in 1836 there were only 12 workshops because of the war between France and Australia. After the war the manufacturing of glass and beads continued to develop.

In the beginning of XIX century first mechanical systems for making beads were invented, hereupon this kind of adornment was available for different groups of society. Beads came into vogue and were broadly used for making brushes, buttons and buckles and also for decorating drapery and cushions. In the Moran island were situated almost the whole manufacturing of beads in Venetia, which were composed of three big glass-works with 433 workmen and 268 workwomen. They used to thread tiny beads, which were called 'the beads of a priest'.

Beads in the XIX-XX centuries

In the end of XIX- beginning of XX c. artists like Emil Galley and Tiffany paid serious consideration at glass beads. The trade was very successful during the XX century. A short time ago, a new beads trend began.

Modern designers use beads and bugle for clothes decorating and for making accessories. Valentine Judashkin covers dresses with luxurious fancy-work. Jean Paul Gaultier decorates reticules with beads and Osimar Versolatto- belts and collars. Christian Lacquer created beads details of jackets and trousers and Paco Rabanne made a dress from beads. Hats, gloves are made from beads nets. Footwear, dresses, even fur coats and swimming suits are decorated with beads, not to speak of variety of necklaces, chaplets and bracelets.

Nowadays, the designers find new materials, invent technologies and often turn back to the past. Pleasantly, those great fashion designers accept the inspiration of Russian art.